"The potential for recycled textile is huge, but regulatory measures are lacking" (F. Hoffmann, Avantium)

How does Avantium's technology operate?

Avantium is a Dutch company that produces plastics from sugar. It uses a chemical process to convert sugar into FDCA, a plant-based chemical, which is then used to produce PEF. This material is a polyester similar to PET, but with improved performance properties and the ability to extend the shelf life of packaged products. This contributes to reducing food waste.

In addition to FDCA and PEF production, Avantium has developed a chemical recycling technology for textile waste, known as Dawn Technology®. This process separates blended cotton-polyester textiles into distinct material streams.

How does your chemical recycling technology work on textile waste?

Dawn Technology® processes post-consumer textile waste composed of cotton, polyester and other materials. Through chemical recycling, the cotton fraction is separated from synthetic materials. The cotton is converted into glucose, which can be used as a feedstock to produce FDCA, while the polyester is recovered for further recycling. These outputs can be used to manufacture new plastic bottles, textiles, mattresses or upholstery fabrics.

The process achieves high yields. From garments containing both cotton and polyester, the two fractions are effectively separated and reused. The exact proportions depend on the initial composition, but overall material losses remain limited.

What are the main challenges to scaling it up?

Two main challenges are identified. The first relates to financing the next phase of development. The technology requires further validation at pilot scale before reaching a first commercial plant. We are working within several consortia and participating in competitions —The Mills Fabrica and with H&M, for example — to address this.

Demand for recycled textile content remains limited, as there are few measures encouraging brands to systematically use recycled materials.

The second concerns the regulatory and market framework for textile waste. Existing legislation, including the Waste Framework Directive, provides a basis, but a more harmonised and dedicated framework for textiles would support market development. Demand for recycled textile content remains limited, as there are few measures encouraging brands to systematically use recycled materials. Stronger policy signals would support demand and facilitate industrial scale-up.

From a technical perspective, deployment is feasible. However, virgin fabrics remain inexpensive, as they are largely produced from low-cost plastic blends. Recycled fabrics are more costly, as chemical recycling requires significant energy and capital investment. Mechanical recycling is not suitable for blended materials.

Is the perception of chemical recycling versus mechanical recycling also a hurdle?

This is less of an issue in textiles. In the clothing sector, it is generally understood that garments are made from blended materials, and that chemical recycling is necessary to recover value. This differs from many plastic and packaging applications, where materials are often single-stream and mechanical recycling is easier.

In textiles, blends are common, and chemical recycling is widely seen as a relevant solution. However, chemical recycling remains at an early stage of industrial development in Europe. Large-scale plants for plastics are only beginning to emerge, and textile-specific solutions are less advanced.

Are you considering locating recycling facilities near export destinations for used textiles, such as Pakistan or Ghana?

This is not currently being pursued.

Beyond regulation, is there any other way to develop this market?

Available levers remain limited. The European Commission is examining measures related to mattresses, which include textile components. For clothing, comparable measures are not yet in place. In other sectors, such as packaging and automotive, recycled-content requirements already exist.

Textile production operates at a large scale, but the use of recycled content remains low. The potential is significant, but regulatory measures that stimulate demand, including recycled-content targets, would support wider adoption.

This issue concerns the entire value chain. From sorting to recycling and materials development, clearer and more consistent demand signals would support the expansion of recycled textile use.

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